The Spanish daily lunch menu fights for its survival

The menú del día is under pressure in Spain. This daily set lunch has been a staple of working life for decades. It typically includes a starter, a main course, and a dessert or coffee. The price is fixed and usually includes bread and a drink. However, the habit is losing ground as eating habits shift. A new book by food journalist Lakshmi Aguirre examines this tradition. She argues that the menu is in trouble but not yet finished.

The history of the menú is rooted in the mid-1960s. It was created by Manuel Fraga, the information and tourism minister under dictator Francisco Franco. The goal was to show foreign visitors that food in Spain was plentiful and affordable. This came after the difficult years following the civil war. Restaurants were required to serve specific items. These included a soup starter and a main dish of egg, fish, or meat. Customers had to choose from at least three options. A side dish and a fruit-based or sweet dessert were also mandatory.

Prices were strictly controlled during this initial period. They ranged from 50 to 250 pesetas. The law also regulated the accompanying drink. It had to be a quarter-litre of pure Spanish red or white wine. The alcohol content needed to be at least 12 percent. This rule was designed to stop owners from serving weak beverages. In the early 1970s, the offer was renamed. The new name aimed to make it look less like a tourist trap. It also encouraged ordinary Spaniards to use it.

Today, the origin of the menú is largely forgotten. Many people are surprised to learn about its political roots. Aguirre noted that reactions were often one of shock when she mentioned Fraga during her research. She observed that Spaniards tend to forget their recent history quickly. She describes the menu as a reflection of the country's social evolution. Nostalgia is growing as people realize the tradition is fading.

Several factors are driving this decline. The average price is now 14.70 euros. Many workers lack the time for a sit-down lunch. They often bring food from home or heat up supermarket meals. Rising energy and food costs make it difficult for small, family-run restaurants. These businesses struggle to offer a rotating daily choice. Some have simplified their offerings to a single dish of the day. Others have added Latin American staples to reflect the country's changing demographics.

Aguirre accepts these changes. She believes the menú has always mirrored the society that eats it. Her ideal meal is simple. It might include a vegetable stew, hake in green sauce, or baby squid in ink. Dessert could be fried milk or rice pudding. She has specific tests for a good venue. She looks for simple dishes and a regularly changing menu. The chips should not be frozen. The regulars should be vocal. The chalkboard should not list trendy items like avocado or burrata. Bonus points are given if the owner's child is doing homework at a back table.

For Aguirre, the issue is more than just cost. The menú serves as a social meeting point. It allows families with limited means to eat out. It provides company for people living alone. She argues that the true privilege lies in having time to enjoy the meal. It is not just about affordability. The tradition supports community and connection. Its future remains uncertain as these social dynamics shift.